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Wiring Aux lights
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SpoilerFJ84
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Joined: Apr 28, 2014
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Location: Tucson

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:48 am    Post subject: Wiring Aux lights Reply with quote

My FJs 10th birthday mod-a-thon is still going! I've done, and still have to do, a lot of cosmetic and mechanical upgrades and additions. Today's addition is auxiliary lighting in the light ports of my Expo1 front bumper (I will be putting lights in the rear one as well, and adding a roof mounted light bar later).

I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to electrical wiring and did a fair amount of research and watching how-to videos. Over the course of the day (and several trips to O'Reilly), I was able to get everything hooked up and working. However, after stumbling across this writeup and doing some more reading, I feel like I may have made a mistake somewhere.

I purchased these lights to go in the bumper.

And to use this switch in my center console button cluster thing (the 2 rows of 4 buttons under the radio)

My concerns mainly center around that push-switch. I grounded the ground wire (black), I took the red2 (red wire next to black) and plugged that into an add-a-fuse in the box under the steering wheel that provides power to the button when the key is in the ignition), then took red1 (next to green) and sent that to my Relay.

I was working off this picture

I didn't quite understand where green was supposed to go. After some vain searches and trial and error, I found that the only way for the push-switch to work properly (light up when turned on and actually turn the lights on as well) is to tie green directly into the + terminal on the car battery.

That's the part that makes me nervous now. There is no fuse or breaker between the push switch and my vehicle battery.

My other thought at the time, which makes more sense to me now, was to splice green into red1 (the one that goes to the relay, which has a fuse on the power line from the relay to the battery).

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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Jimbolio
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 10:44 am    Post subject: Re: Wiring Aux lights Reply with quote

Red 2 is only for the lights on the switch which turn on when the ignition is on if you wired it as you say to an add a fuse to the fuse block (Assuming it's one of the ignition on fuse spots)

Green should go directly the + post on your battery. You should use and in line fuse at the recommended amp rating for the switch.

You can pick those up at O'Rielly too, it's best to solder them in, but butt connectors will work too.



So, from your diagram
GREEN = Source (From the positive battery or a HOT fuse slot on the box)
RED1= Power to your Relay (Which you wired correctly)
RED2 = power from an ignition tied fuse (To light the switch)
BLACK = to Ground







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SpoilerFJ84
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Joined: Apr 28, 2014
Posts: 149
Location: Tucson

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 10:51 am    Post subject: Re: Wiring Aux lights Reply with quote

From the wire harness I received with the lights I have a direct line with a fuse built in between my battery + terminal and my relay.

CAR BATTERY --------FUSE-----------RELAY

Should I solder the green wire in between my FUSE and RELAY that goes to the battery?

CAR BATTERY ----------FUSE-------green splice------RELAY

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-Jason
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Jimbolio
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:26 am    Post subject: Re: Wiring Aux lights Reply with quote

CAR BATTERY ---FUSE--GREEN--[Switch] --RED1--RELAY--Red/Black to Lights.

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SpoilerFJ84
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Location: Tucson

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 12:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Wiring Aux lights Reply with quote

Thanks Jim.

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BellyDoc
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Wiring Aux lights Reply with quote

A relay should make you think about TWO circuits.

One circuit is a power circuit to your lights. It's powered ON by a relay which is a really just a switch (that's electrically activated).

The other circuit is the electrical activation for the relay.

The reason for doing it this way is so that you don't have to have big gauge workhorse level wiring and switches running heavy duty electrical power through the dash. Keep the heavy stuff forward of the firewall and have little electronics sized wiring in the dashboard.

The trouble is that you have 2 circuits that could be a problem if they short, and so both of them deserve fuses. You should have a fuse appropriate to the wiring size for the lights (I think mine is 30A) inline with that, and one that is appropriate for the switch circuit(s) inline there, too. IIRC, I have a 10A fuse inline with the input power source for all my dashboard switches. The switches and relays really don't draw much power so the 10A fuse is enough flow for all of them.

I recommend using a label gun and making little flags to wrap around your wires so that you can instantly identify them. Once you start to [email protected]*K with electrical, you've invited the devil in, and you can count on having to do some trouble shooting down the line. It's just a matter of time, and it'll happen just slightly after you finally forget which wire went to what.

The most common problem BY FAR that plagues electrical mods is corroded grounding connections on the frame. When an electrical accessory stops working, I suggest to GO DIRECTLY TO WHERE IT ATTACHES TO THE FRAME. Disassemble. Grind. Reassemble.

I recommend to GRIND frame attachments to bright metal, weld or drill, bolt up all the wires you're going to use there, and then protect it with something anticorrosive. If you don't think you're going to be messing with it any time soon, it's totally acceptable to hit it with spray paint. That metal to metal contact is your friend. Corrosion is your enemy.

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az4runner wrote:
glideraz wrote:
if I where you I would just get some jb weld
Is jb weld really as strong as if I just welded them on with my welder?

glideraz wrote:
Could be stronger it all depends on how you weld
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BellyDoc
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Wiring Aux lights Reply with quote

Using the logic above:

Switch circuit: battery--->fuse(small)---->switch---->relay---->ground

Power circuit for light: battery--->fuse(big)--->relay--->lights--->ground


Another thing that gets confusing with talking about auto electrical is that the lingo is backwards relative to everyone's understanding of how electrical current really flows. People understand ELECTRONS to be particles that flow through a conductor from what we call the "negative" terminal of a battery. Auto electrical lingo basically treats this flow as if it's going the other way. There isn't a practical problem with it but it can be confusing. The negative terminal of the battery attaches to the auto frame. Wires from the battery positive connect to various electrical components, and from there to the frame. Intellectually, you'd think maybe it would be better the other way around, that you'd supply the electrons directly to the parts of interest, and then let them come back through the frame. It turns out it really doesn't matter because whatever the total resistance, its the same either way around. The +/- directionality is arbitrary. At one time there were some vehicles wired one way and others wired opposite. It became a convention to do it this way at some point in the 60's or 70's. For offroad vehicles there's a slight bonus in that arc welding works well in this direction, but that had nothing to do with it. It's just a gift.

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az4runner wrote:
glideraz wrote:
if I where you I would just get some jb weld
Is jb weld really as strong as if I just welded them on with my welder?

glideraz wrote:
Could be stronger it all depends on how you weld
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