Offroad Trailer build
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#106: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: Ogresham8Location: Tucson, Arizona PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 7:12 pm
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ClutchBurner wrote:
BellyDoc wrote:
Teach me more about your heat control technique using the foot pedal. When you're welding mild steel material like this project, do you start with a heavy foot and then back off to some level that you're likely to keep for the rest of the weld? Do you taper off as the heat builds up? Do you vary the heat input with every dip of the rod? Do you ever stop a weld because the heat is going to get out of control and then come back to it later?

Sorry Doc for not giving you a qwick reply been busy with the trailer. As for work I use a foot pedal on the tig welder I use at work.I do not have a foot pedal On the tig welder I have at home, It has a dial wheel I control with my finger.I have grown fond of my finger tip control,I can weld in any position and not worry about having to push on a foot pedel.

I use this setup for buttwelds I bought the air cooled wp9 smaller torch head to have better control and use the 20 series torch cup,collet gas lens,and back cap



I use this set up for fillet welds its a #7 aluma cup for aluminum,I like it for getting into tight weld areas.


If you want to weld some titanium you can go with a set up like this and run a trailing cup behind it.
[img][/img]


Ok back to your question's a whole lot of things are coming into play foot pedal control, torch movement speed, wire feed being applied for amps being used to melt weld joint. I will start my torch soft and apply amps as needed to melt the weld joint, if I see my weld puddle start to grow back off the pedal ever so slightly. Doc how is your filler rod feeding can to feed a whole rod length with your left hand without stopping? if not you need to practice feeding rod. You will never have puddle control if your struggling to apply filler rod to your weld joint. If you see your weld puddle getting out of control yes just stop back your torch up and restart ,you control the heat and filler rod it does not control you like mig you pull the trigger you better get moving. Try this get two pieces of 1/8 inch mild steel sheet metal make a key hole or gap the two base metals about 1/16 set your tig welder around 50 amps or more tack weld the top and bottom ends don't worry about the back side it will be burnt because of no gas back up. The moment you start your torch full pedal it to the ground, and start adding filler rod this will teach you torch travel speed to hot speed up your movement speed to cold slow down your movement speed and add filler rod based on your movement speed. Doc get your garage set up I can stop by and give you some pointers. John here are some more tips torch angle, tungsten stick out, how close your are holding your torch to work piece to high a wider arc will happen. Everything will have to come into play to have a consisted weld bead from start to finish. Best tip mild steel is dirty you will need to clean it like you are going into surgery, I even acetone my weld joint before welding them. Also you can runs beads on a flat sheet stock over and over until you want to joy puke to find your happy medium.

Where did you learn to weld? This is great knowledge.

#107: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: ClutchBurnerLocation: Surprise Arizona PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 4:24 am
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Ogresham8 wrote:
ClutchBurner wrote:
BellyDoc wrote:
Teach me more about your heat control technique using the foot pedal. When you're welding mild steel material like this project, do you start with a heavy foot and then back off to some level that you're likely to keep for the rest of the weld? Do you taper off as the heat builds up? Do you vary the heat input with every dip of the rod? Do you ever stop a weld because the heat is going to get out of control and then come back to it later?

Sorry Doc for not giving you a qwick reply been busy with the trailer. As for work I use a foot pedal on the tig welder I use at work.I do not have a foot pedal On the tig welder I have at home, It has a dial wheel I control with my finger.I have grown fond of my finger tip control,I can weld in any position and not worry about having to push on a foot pedel.

I use this setup for buttwelds I bought the air cooled wp9 smaller torch head to have better control and use the 20 series torch cup,collet gas lens,and back cap



I use this set up for fillet welds its a #7 aluma cup for aluminum,I like it for getting into tight weld areas.


If you want to weld some titanium you can go with a set up like this and run a trailing cup behind it.
[img][/img]


Ok back to your question's a whole lot of things are coming into play foot pedal control, torch movement speed, wire feed being applied for amps being used to melt weld joint. I will start my torch soft and apply amps as needed to melt the weld joint, if I see my weld puddle start to grow back off the pedal ever so slightly. Doc how is your filler rod feeding can to feed a whole rod length with your left hand without stopping? if not you need to practice feeding rod. You will never have puddle control if your struggling to apply filler rod to your weld joint. If you see your weld puddle getting out of control yes just stop back your torch up and restart ,you control the heat and filler rod it does not control you like mig you pull the trigger you better get moving. Try this get two pieces of 1/8 inch mild steel sheet metal make a key hole or gap the two base metals about 1/16 set your tig welder around 50 amps or more tack weld the top and bottom ends don't worry about the back side it will be burnt because of no gas back up. The moment you start your torch full pedal it to the ground, and start adding filler rod this will teach you torch travel speed to hot speed up your movement speed to cold slow down your movement speed and add filler rod based on your movement speed. Doc get your garage set up I can stop by and give you some pointers. John here are some more tips torch angle, tungsten stick out, how close your are holding your torch to work piece to high a wider arc will happen. Everything will have to come into play to have a consisted weld bead from start to finish. Best tip mild steel is dirty you will need to clean it like you are going into surgery, I even acetone my weld joint before welding them. Also you can runs beads on a flat sheet stock over and over until you want to joy puke to find your happy medium.


Where did you learn to weld? This is great knowledge.



I learned from my Dad who was a welding engineer. I did not need to go to a school I lived with a teacher all my life.

#108: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: ClutchBurnerLocation: Surprise Arizona PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 4:09 pm
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#109: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: SafetyHookerLocation: PHX, AZ PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:43 am
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Most Impressive Skill Set!

#110: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: RemconLocation: Peoria PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:23 pm
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Hey Rick, forget about the pipes. Had another clamp bust so I took them off. Gonna be the start of my biker parts collection.

#111: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: ClutchBurnerLocation: Surprise Arizona PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:14 am
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Its been awhile sort of got back into the trailer build. I was trying to get in done in less than a year, with life and work it's not going to happen. I'm just working on it as time permits. So here is some pictures of some progress.

I finally got the frame done to be able to lay the diamond plate floor
[img][/img]

Here is the diamond plate floor I cut a notch in every frame support to fit in like a puzzle and welded it all around the frame.
[img][/img]

Here is the siding I skinned the out side to give me more cargo area. I tucked
the siding into the frame to be able to do a really nice fillet weld .I only have the siding tacked welded into place and need to fill my argon bottle to finish the welding.
[img][/img]

Here is a pic of the front siding also tucked into the frame just tacked welded into place ready for welding.
[img][/img]

More progress will be posted as things get done. My goal or wishful thinking to have it ready for the fall trout fishing season.

#112: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: JimbolioLocation: Tucson PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 12:53 pm
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Looking Good,

Needs more Fancy and a place for the Horses to hook up.

#113: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: ClutchBurnerLocation: Surprise Arizona PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:44 pm
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Hi everyone it's been awhile back on the trailer, here are some pictures of my latest progress. I need to finish wiring the tail and marker lights to get it ready for MVD to have it inspected to get my vin number. After I get my vin and license plate. I'm going to finish accessorizing the trailer, and have it professionally painted. It will be done for the spring trout season. Stay tuned I'm going to build a camping pod to slide into the trailer and be able to take out.

vid1203.photobucket.co...u9ufim.mp4

Mocking up the tailgate
[img]

[img][/img]

[img][/img]

[img][/img]

[img][/img]

[img]Complete overkill on the tailgate skinned it with 12 gauge sheet metal I'm going to guess it weighs 80 pounds.[/img]

[img] completed dam it came out good.[/img]

#114: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: Homedad PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 10:35 pm
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RICK!!!!!

#115: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: FatRat PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 11:20 pm
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Hey buddy!!!! How you been?

#116: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: BellyDoc PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 11:41 pm
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Hey! It's really good to see you back! I've wondered how this was going and was really looking forward to seeing more of those gorgeous welds.

The tailgate rocks. I totally dig overkill. Once the part is lifted into place, it's hard to regret knowing that it will withstand hurricane forces or even potentially small arms fire. If the shit hits the fan, you'll find me cowering under this trailer!!

edit: almost missed the inset tail lights... excellent idea... I plan to revise my trailer lights into armored insets too... I shoulda seen that coming.

#117: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: ClutchBurnerLocation: Surprise Arizona PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:15 pm
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Fatrat ,Kurt doing well super busy with work and making time to work on the trailer, the finish line is close. I'm really enjoying the finishing touches because I get to weld some things on my weld bench. Here are some more pictures and a Video of me welding the side rail on the bench.


Hey doc I used that scor and bend technique you told me about to make the slide lock.
[img][/img]



I decided to use led flush mount running and marker lights drill a hole pop in rubber bushing and push in the light
[img][/img]

Here is the video link of me welding the side rail
vid1203.photobucket.co...okilov.mp4



Hooked up to the FJ.
[img][/img]

#118: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: ratfinkLocation: southern Arizona PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 5:26 am
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Very nice trailer. Thanks for sharing.

#119: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: JimbolioLocation: Tucson PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 9:14 am
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I think that will be excellent! you need an RTT to go on it. I know a guy.

azfj.org/index.php?nam...ic&t=12235

If you buy the tent, I know someone is interested in the Annex. Will work separate deals.

#120: Re: Offroad Trailer build Author: ClutchBurnerLocation: Surprise Arizona PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:18 pm
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I have a yakama roof rack, I busted off my roof rack backing into the garage.
I had to modify it to work with the trailer rails. It turned out it was pot metal, when I tried to weld on it. I made a bracket and bolted it to the bracket




Fitting it up to the rail




This picture is my main reason for the trailer build it is finally a reality seeing my boat on top of the trailer. Very Happy



Jimbo no room for a roof top tent and boat the boat win's.



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